Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these stories and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
